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Mise à jour du 9 décembre 2009 :

 

Rendez-vous avec la Jeanne d’Arc

Nous avons caractérisé nos expéditions sur Madre de Dios par une expression originale : la spéléologie maritime !
Bien sûr, là-bas la mer est partout, et chacune de nos explorations journalières commence par un parcours d’approche en zodiac, sur les canaux qui sont le passage obligé entre toutes les îles de l’archipel. La navigation est parfois rude, quand le vent est de la partie, mais, une fois débarqués, la pluie omniprésente a vite fait de nous dessaler.


Photo d'archive Utima Patagonia 2008, approche en zodiac

La mer est aussi le débouché naturel de toutes les rivières souterraines de Madre de Dios. Souvent, la grotte ou le gouffre exploré se termine par un siphon où l’eau disparaît, et, avec elle, nos espoirs de continuation. Comme le niveau marin est monté de 120 mètres depuis la fin de la dernière glaciation, il y a 10.000 ans, la sortie de cette eau se fait sous le niveau actuel de la mer. Dans les résurgences, nos plongeurs commencent donc par plonger… en mer, avant de trouver l’eau douce et de la remonter !

Cette année, la composante maritime de nos aventures s’enrichit encore. En effet, nous avons rendez-vous là-bas avec la Jeanne d’Arc, porte-hélicoptères et navire-école de la Royale.
La genèse de cette rencontre prochaine vaut d’être contée…
En 2008, notre cinéaste, Luc-Henri Fage, réalisait au cours de l’expédition le film le Mystère de la Baleine, dont un résumé de 25 minutes a été programmé dans Thalassa cet été, et dont la version longue poursuit une fort belle carrière dans les festivals spécialisés où elle a déjà raflé de nombreux prix. Ce fut encore le cas au festival de La Rochelle, le 21 novembre dernier. Dans la salle, un enseigne de vaisseau, impressionné par les images qu’il venait de voir, écoutait Luc-Henri, recevant son prix, parler de l’expédition 2010 et de notre problème d’accès à la zone septentrionale de l’île : trop éloignée de notre base, elle n’a été qu’entrevue qu’à de rares occasions. Aussitôt un projet germait dans sa tête : il s’est concrétisé par ce rendez-vous programmé pour le 30 janvier.

Que n’avons-nous pas déjà tenté pour l’atteindre, ce grand karst du nord de l’île, aussi vaste que tout ce que nous avons exploré en trois expéditions ! Madre de Dios est presque coupée en deux par un vaste chenal est-ouest, situé à une grosse journée de marche de notre camp de base, et largement ouvert sur l’océan Pacifique. Il interdit l’accès pédestre au nord.
En 2006, nous n’avions pas hésité à transporter à dos d’homme, par un col situé à plus de 500 m d’altitude, un zodiac et son lourd moteur !



Photo d'archive 2006 portage d'un bateau sur Madre de Dios


Depuis un camp avancé monté sur la rive même du Barros Luco, cet esquif nous a permis d’en explorer les côtes en grande partie, souvent accompagnés par une troupe de dauphins joueurs. Nous y avons découvert en particulier, sous des porches ouverts sur la mer, plusieurs sépultures des indiens Kawesqar maintenant disparus. Mais nous n’avons pas pu nous enfoncer profondément dans le karst nord !
En 2008, nous avons donc changé notre fusil d’épaule : faute d’y aller par terre, nous irions par mer, profitant d’un navire mis à notre disposition pour deux semaines. Ainsi, le Del-Mar II déposait une équipe sur la rive du large canal Trinidad, tout au nord de Madre de Dios. L’histoire de ce raid est contée ailleurs sur ce site : http://www.centre-terre.fr/ultima2008/12_fevrier.html ; il suffit de dire ici que les conditions météo particulièrement dures ne permirent de ramener des résultats à la hauteur, ni des attentes espérées, ni des efforts fournis.
Mais nous ne nous avouons pas si facilement vaincus ! Si la voie de terre et la voie des mers sont bouchées, pourquoi pas la voie des airs ?
Dès l’origine, le projet 2010 a donc intégré une composante hélicoptère. Elle s’est avérée très complexe à mettre en œuvre, jusqu’à ce contact providentiel avec un officier de la Jeanne d’Arc. Le navire vient d’appareiller de France, cap vers l’Amérique du sud. En janvier, il remontera le Pacifique depuis Ushuaia et se présentera au large de Madre de Dios.
Alors, si la météo est avec nous, nous pourrons enfin larguer au beau milieu du lapiaz nord jusque là inaccessible une équipe et tout son matériel d’exploration. Et la Jeanne poursuivra sa route.
L’équipe travaillera, puis il faudra la rapatrier. Une nouvelle aventure en perspective, que nous vous ferons vivre en direct en février, depuis Guarello…



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Mise à jour du Thursday 17 June 2010
Livre "L'Île aux Glaciers de Marbres"
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