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Mise à jour n°3 du 11/1/2010

 

L’île au trésor


Au-dessus de la cordilière des Andes, entre Santiago et Punta Arenas

La traversée vers Madre de Dios est une double épreuve.
Initiatique d’abord, alors que se défont insensiblement, l’un après l’autre, au cours des 20 heures de navigation entre Puerto Natales et Guarello, les liens qui nous unissent à la civilisation. Physique aussi, pour ceux qui n’ont pas le pied marin !
Pourtant, Ayayema, le dieu implacable des anciens indiens Kawesqar, celui qui avait la haute main sur leurs destinées, déclenchait le tonnerre ou les tourbillons de neige, détachait les vents furieux et tranchait les vies, a été pour une fois bien clément avec nous. Peu de vent, donc peu de vagues, une navigation certes sous un ciel plombé, strié d’averses, mais sans brutalité ; sans ces vagues blanchies auquel le vent patagon arrache si souvent des embruns rageurs.


L'Explorador Patagonia II remonte les canaux vers le nord


Quelques signes de vie coupent la monotonie du temps qui s’étire : le panache lointain d’une baleine, les sauts de cabri des otaries curieuses, et le ballet toujours magique des dauphins qui jouent à dépasser notre navire, l’Explorador Patagonia II. Sans oublier les orbes des albatros, majestueux voiliers de ces latitudes, scrutant l’océan avant de descendre virer au ras des vagues, si près que leurs ailes semblent y prendre appui. Il n’a y a déjà plus de présence humaine, si ce n’est un grand quatre-mâts blanc que nous croisons : apparition fugace, semblant venue tout droit du passé, et qui repart se dissoudre dans la brume.


Nous croisons le bateau école de la marine chilienne


Tout autour de nous, des îles grises, désertes, anonymes, frangées d’écume, se suivent et se ressemblent. Elles sont des myriades dans cet archipel inhospitalier qui s’étire sur mille kilomètres tout au long de la côte du grand sud chilien. Parmi elle, quelque part au nord, nous attend « la nôtre », Madre de Dios, avec qui nous avons des liens à retendre après deux années d’éloignement.

Cette parenthèse d’inaction forcée fait suite à des journées fatigantes. Pour ceux qui viennent d’arriver de France, le voyage n’a été, du jeudi soir au dimanche matin, qu’une suite de perturbations dues au mauvais temps, de nuits blanches, d’horaires impossibles. De la langueur estivale de Santiago, ils n’ont rien perçu : la ville dort pendant qu’ils arpentent les couloirs de l’aéroport, et quand l’avion qui les emmène vers le détroit de Magellan et Punta Arenas survole la Patagonie, le drap blanc qui recouvre si souvent ces contrées austères est déjà tiré.
Pendant ce temps, les huit membres de la pré-expédition partis depuis une semaine n’ont pas chômé.A Santiago, le chef d’expédition mettait au point les derniers détails avec les autorités chiliennes, aidé par Marcelo Aguero, notre représentant sur place. Il était ensuite reçu par Madame l’Ambassadeur de France pour préparer la conférence de presse de fin d’expédition et le rendez-vous du 30 janvier avec la Jeanne-d’Arc, puis rencontrait le PDG de la Compagnie des Aciers du Pacifique, la CAP, qui sera notre hôte au Chili, et enfin, à Punta Arenas, le Préfet de la 12ème Région dont dépend notre zone d’étude.
Le restant de l’équipe est occupé à des tâches plus matérielles mais tout aussi indispensables : courir les magasins de Punta Arenas avec une liste de course interminable. Il nous faut en effet cette année plus de nourriture et de matériel technique que d’habitude, afin d’alimenter les quatre camps éloignés que les hélicoptères de la Jeanne-d’Arc vont approvisionner pour nous fin janvier : cette aide providentielle nous ouvre les portes d’une vaste zone de recherches que son éloignement rendait jusqu’alors inaccessible.
Le car qui emportait dimanche matin l’équipe de janvier au complet (soit 23 personnes) de Punta Arenas vers Puerto Natales, 250 km plus au nord, était donc chargé de la soute au toit d’une multitude de cartons, de ballots et de sacs à dos qu’il fallut ensuite transférer dans les cales de l’Explorador Patagonia II amarré en bout de quai.


Au milieu de nulle part entre Punta Arenas et Puerto Natales

La fin de notre navigation est prévue d’ici trois heures. Mais voilà : maintenant les îles alentours semblent s’éloigner et l’horizon s’élargir : nous entrons dans le large canal Concepcion, où la houle est beaucoup plus vigoureuse. Le bateau tape brutalement sur les vagues qui viennent de tribord et qu’il prend par le travers. Tandis qu’un tintamarre de vaisselle provient des casiers de la cuisine, il faut quitter le pont et se rapprocher du centre de gravité du navire pour minimiser les effets conjugués du roulis et du tangage. Ils feront glisser bien des pieds, et perdre pied à certains estomacs !
Nous voici maintenant dans le canal Oeste, plus calme. Le paysage se fait familier pour les « anciens » : face à nous apparaissent les aiguilles calcaires de l’île Tarlton, aux pentes escarpées, toutes blanches sur le ciel gris. Puis vient le sud de l’île de Guarello et la falaise du Finistère, où nous avons exploré il y a quatre ans la grotte du même nom. Nous longeons vers le nord la côte est de l’île, doublons l’anse des Pirates, notre point de débarquement vers le réseau du Masque et de la Plume, découvert en 2008.
Derrière les pentes de la pointe nord de l’île sort enfin dans le lointain, avec une lenteur majestueuse, Madre de Dios, toujours aussi belle… C’est notre « île au trésor », celle dont nous perçons peu à peu les secrets au fil de nos expéditions. Elle est blanchie de neige bien plus bas que d’habitude : le secteur, il est vrai, vient de subir trois semaines d’un temps exécrable qui a bien mal ouvert l’été austral.
Quelques minutes encore, et voici la petite base de Guarello, terme du voyage, blottie au pied d’un vigoureux relief calcaire. Depuis 60 ans, elle le grignote pour alimenter en fondant, au nord du Chili, les hauts fourneaux de la CAP qui nous accueille sur ses terres pour toute la durée de notre séjour.
Mercredi arrivera le minéralier qui vient chercher tous les quinze jours les 30.000 tonnes de calcaire arrachées entre temps à la montagne. 29 personnes s’y emploient à longueur d’année, isolées sous ce climat rude à plus de 250 km des premiers lieux habités : Puerto Natales au sud, et le petit poste de Puerto Eden au nord.
Des flancs du grand navire sera extrait notre conteneur de 33 m3 avec tout le matériel venu de France.
Alors l’aventure pourra vraiment commencer…


Déchargement du bateau sur la base de Guarello



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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 26

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 27

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 36

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 26

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 27

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 36
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