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Mise à jour n° 4 du 15/01/2010

 

Mise en jambes

Mardi 12 : deux équipes partent sur le terrain. Comme nous ne disposons pas encore de nos zodiacs, elles embarquent sur le Guayo, le petit bateau qui aide aux manœuvres du minéralier.


Départ des 2 équipes vers Tarlton et Madre de Dios

La 1ère est déposée sur Madre de Dios, tout au fond du seno Soplador, un ancien lac maintenant ennoyé, au pied d’une vallée boisée qui monte vers le nord. Sa mission est de trouver un emplacement de camp pour reprendre l’exploration du gouffre de la Détente, situé en hauteur sur le flanc est de la vallée : avec le temps, la pluie, les piétinements, l’ancien camp est devenu une véritable fondrière. La montée est rude vers une croupe gréseuse aux flancs escarpés, couverte de buissons denses.
Soudain la nature de la roche change et la végétation, faute de sol arable, disparaît. Les étendues calcaires sur lesquels on prend pied sont les fameux « glaciers de marbre », immensités nues d’une blancheur aveuglante, criblées d’entonnoirs et de gouffres, striées de fissures parfois larges qu’il faut sauter ou contourner par de longs détours.



Les célèbres "glaciers de marbre" de Madre de Dios

Sous la pluie, les pentes de ce grand « lapiaz » sont parcourues par des centaines de rus parallèles, descendant au plus raide. Ils ont creusé des saignées où l’eau cascade avant de se perdre dans quelque fissure qui la conduira vers la mer, par des chemins secrets. Quand il ne pleut pas, c’est un monde minéral, immobile et désert. Mais ces descriptions ne disent rien de la beauté des lieux. Olivier, qui les découvre, notera ce soir sur le livre d’or, où chaque sortie est soigneusement consignée : « le lapiaz est magnifique : des dalles de calcaire lisses, des cannelures, des écoulements en escalier, des modelés de roche étonnants… Au fur et à mesure de la montée, l’horizon s’élargit et le paysage devient trop grand pour les yeux : je voudrais tout regarder en même temps, tellement c’est beau ». Étonnante confidence : les spéléos ne sont pas connus pour être de grands contemplatifs…
Plus haut, une nouvelle frontière rocheuse, semi-horizontale, se présente : on retrouve, au-dessus des calcaires, une vaste bande de grès où la végétation reprend ses droits. Ces roches imperméables collectent des ruisseaux plus importants, issus des pentes supérieures qui conduisent au Mont Roberto ( 820 m). Dès qu’ils atteignent les calcaires sous-jacents, ils s’y enfouissent en creusant des gouffres. Nous avons trouvé, tout au long de cette limite naturelle presque rectiligne, plusieurs cavités importantes : la perte du Sablier ( -271 m), la perte du Futur ( -376 m, gouffre le plus profond du Chili) et le gouffre de la Détente, arrêté faute de matériel vers la cote -300 m en 2006, qui est à poursuivre. L’équipe repère, à 5 minutes à l’est et 50 m au-dessus de l’entrée une clairière abritée du vent qui devrait faire l’affaire.
L’île Tarlton est toute proche de Madre de Dios : au plus étroit, seule une rue d’eau de quelques dizaines de mètres de large les sépare. Ce goulet débouche dans le seno Azul qui s’étire vers le Pacifique, avec Madre de Dios à sa droite, et Tarlton à sa gauche (voir le panorama à 360°).
La seconde équipe monte vers la station hydro-météo que Stéphane et Laurent ont installée en 2008 sur le versant ouest de Tarlton. Elle est destinée à mesurer finement la vitesse de dissolution des calcaires par l’eau de pluie - la plus élevée au monde - et diverses données météo.


Les scientifiques récupèrent les données de la station météo

L’installation semble avoir bien résisté, l’anémomètre tourne toujours. En ouvrant l’armoire protégeant les moyens d’acquisition, mauvaise surprise : le fond baigne dans 5 cm d’eau et les contacts sont oxydés. La batterie d’alimentation est vide... Le rack est démonté et ramené à la base. Ce soir, Stéphane parviendra quand même à récupérer les données de 14 mois de mesures jusqu’en avril 2009, date où la batterie a cessé de fonctionné.


La station météo nous livre un peu plus d'un an d'enregistrements

C’est un succès : il y a là des dizaines de milliers de mesures précieuses qu’il faudra exploiter en France au retour.
L’équipe s’égaille sur les pentes lapiazées. Qu’importe s’il pleut depuis midi, José lui aussi est sous le charme : « Nous montons au-dessus de la station, simplement pour le régal des yeux. Les comètes de roche, les lapiaz de versant, les glaciers de marbre, tout dépasse en beauté ce que nous avions pu en imaginer d’après les photos. »

Mercredi 13. La pluie qui tombe depuis hier va durer toute la journée, qui est sous avis de tempête avec des pointes de vent à 45 nœuds et des creux de 2,5 à 4 mètres. Notre temps se passe en réunions de calage et mise au point de procédures.


Réunion de calage sur les différentes procédures

 

Au soir, le minéralier se présente enfin dans la grisaille du lointain. Le monstre de près de 200 mètres manœuvre longuement dans la rade avant de se ranger à quai. À peine est-il immobilisé, à peine ses cales sont-elles ouvertes que le tapis roulant du convoyeur se met en marche : les blocs de calcaires stockés dans les silos de la mine commencent à se déverser pour 36 heures dans ses cales, formant une curieuse cascade solide sous laquelle monte lentement un cône d’éboulis.
Au bout du navire, une grue s’active : notre conteneur est à quai !


Montage des Zodiac et organisation du matériel à la bodega

Le programme de demain est tout trouvé, la pluie qui continue à tomber avec constance ne gênera pas nos sorties terrain : nous serons ici, à transporter notre matériel et organiser son stockage dans le grand hall qui a été mis à notre disposition, la « bodega ».

Jeudi 14 : le vent a tourné de 180°. Maintenant plein nord, il frappe durement la base qui gémit sous l’assaut, blanchit la mer, repousse la pluie hier verticale, aujourd’hui horizontale. Car il pleut toujours !
Opération conteneur : peu à peu le vaste hall de la bodega se remplit, l’organisation spatiale se met en place avec des secteurs plongée, matériel spéléo, chargement des batteries, bricolage, séchage…Les bidons d’affaires personnelles se vident et chacun s’installe au mieux. On assemble et gonfle les zodiacs, extrait les moteurs des caisses, range les vivres de course dans la réserve. Des silhouettes courent sur la pluie battante. Au soir la pluie semble vouloir s’arrêter, puis reprend de plus belle.
C'est la Patagonie ...


Déchargement du conteneur

Quelques images vidéo lors du repérage d'un nouveau camp(40 Mo)


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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 26

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 27

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 36

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 26

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 27

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 36
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