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Mise à jour n° 5 du 19/01/2010

 

El mal tiempo

La spéléologie maritime n’est pas simple à mettre en œuvre, surtout, comme c’est le cas ici, lorsque les aléas climatiques sont constants. Il y a donc des jours avec et des jours sans, et des retours qui se font dans des conditions qu’on n’imaginait pas à l’aller. Parfois, c’est au cours d’une même approche que les conditions changent brutalement…
C’est ce qui s’est produit ce samedi.

Vendredi 15 : La veille, le soleil avait fait son apparition à la mi-journée et les moteurs avaient été montés sur les Zodiac sous un joli ciel panaché de blanc et de bleu. La suite, c’est-à-dire l’amarinage des matelots novices que nous sommes, se passe donc au mieux : quatre équipes partent sur l’eau avec un formateur, chacun tour à tour passe en revue les consignes de sécurité, prend la barre, répète les manœuvres d’homme à la mer. Il faut apprendre aussi à amarrer un bateau à terre en déjouant les pièges que le vent et la marée ne manqueront pas de tendre dans l’intervalle de temps d’une exploration.

Samedi 16 : Cet avant-goût de soleil incite tout le monde à s’inscrire pour sortir samedi. Mais, le lendemain, le beau temps escompté s’est évanoui…
Qu’importe, on part ; une équipe doit monter du matériel au camp de la Détente, deux autres vont prospecter dans les deux secteurs restant vierges au SW de Madre de Dios, que nous avons baptisés : « les Quinquas » et : « les Lobos».

La dernière équipe, retardée par une mise au point sur son Zodiac, se heurte à un vent qui a notablement forci. La pluie grêle les visages, la mer est blanche, hachée, le vent de face.
Vu les conditions, il n’est plus question de ne laisser personne à la base pour toute la journée. Après dépose de l’équipe, deux personnes se dévouent donc pour rentrer à Guarello assurer la sécurité. Toute la journée le temps reste exécrable, la mer mauvaise, le vent monte à 40 nœuds. Chacune des trois équipes engagées sera jetée à terre par une rafale dépassant les cent km/h ! Néanmoins les objectifs sont atteints et tout le monde rentre au bercail sans encombre, mais trempé, salé, frigorifié…
Au soir, la pluie cesse.

Dimanche 17 : Le temps reste très instable avec des alternances de grains et d’éclaircies. Le vent passe au sud, puis vire au nord, renforçant la houle. La météo annonce des rafales à 60 nœuds.
On fait le point. Pour l’instant l’exploration de la Détente n’est pas envisageable : les risques de crue sont trop grands, il faut attendre la bonne fenêtre météo. On liste les objectifs de sortie à la journée et décide de lancer également deux raids de 3 à 4 jours aux Quinquas et aux Lobos : recherche d’un lieu de camp et montage des tentes, poursuite de la prospection du terrain, début d’exploration des cavités repérées. Ces camps resteront installés, des équipes y tourneront.

Lundi 18 : Les deux équipes sont parties : aux Lobos, Arnauld, Cédric, Denis, Laurent, Olivier ; aux Quinquas, Bruno, Didier, Fabien, José, Jo.

D’autres partent pour la journée : Florian et Stéphane démontent la station hydro-météo de Tarlton et complètent la topographie de son bassin versant. De leur côté, Bernard, Pierre, Serge et Vanessa partent repérer des accès au massif sur le versant est de Madre de Dios, mais la forêt les repousse.

Ils parviennent à l’anse de la Baleine, où nous avions jeté l’ancre avec le bateau qui nous tenait lieu de camp de base en 2000. Serti de verdure, dominé par des falaises d’où cascade une résurgence, le lieu est attrayant. Lichens, fuschias, sable fin, et, à demi enfoncées dans la vase, plusieurs vertèbres de baleine…

Au beau milieu de l’anse, l’eau est soulevée par un curieux bombement : c’est une résurgence sous-marine qui sort là, et l’eau douce qu’elle vomit, moins dense que l’eau salée, remonte en surface en formant ce champignon.
Le temps est gris, avec des grains sporadiques. Aux Lobos, l’équipe trouve un superbe porche très bien abrité, qui servira de camp confortable, sans devoir y monter de tente : une bâche contre les gouttes suffira. Aux Quinquas, le matériel déposé samedi est récupéré et les deux tentes sont montées dans une dépression protégée du vent par des arbres. Deux bâches soigneusement arrimées protègent le matériel et le coin cuisine. Par chance, la pluie a cessé durant l’opération, mais elle reprend de plus belle pendant la nuit et s’invite même dans les tentes au petit matin, tant le terrain est devenu spongieux. Rien à faire pour l’éviter ; insidieusement, elle court partout, infiltre tout.

Mardi 19 : Jean-François, Jean-Philippe et Thomas partent à la grotte du Masque, située au sud de l’île de Guarello. On contourne en Zodiac la pointe nord de l’île, puis longe sa côte est sur un kilomètre jusqu’à l’anse des Pirates, où l’on débarque pour deux heures de marche. Après un chapelet de lacs, voici la grotte ou se perd l’émissaire du dernier. Il s’agit aujourd’hui de récupérer un luirographe posé en 2008. Ce petit appareil, immergé dans une rivière souterraine, relève en continu la pression de l’eau qui le surmonte et permet donc d’enregistrer les variations de niveau dues aux crues. En dépouillant les données obtenues, on recueille des informations sur le régime hydrologique de la cavité. Des luirographes équipent ainsi plusieurs sites stratégiques sur les îles et nous les relèverons tous pendant l’expédition.


Sur Madre de Dios, dans les deux camps d’altitude, les équipes sont toujours dans le mauvais temps. Aux Quinquas, le brouillard s’installe, gênant les déplacements sur le lapiaz strié de profondes fissures ; plusieurs gouffres sont descendus, mais sans continuation. Dans la nuit la tempête annoncée arrive : la bâche de la cuisine s’envole, Fabien, aidé de José, court la récupérer, à la frontale et pieds nus. Ils sécurisent la seconde bâche. Ouf…
Aux Lobos par contre, dans la grotte bien protégée des intempéries, la nuit a été calme. Lors d’une vacation radio, on apprend à Guarello qu’ils ont trouvé une grotte comportant à quelques mètres à l’intérieur, un mur de pierre, monté avec soin, délimitant une salle ayant servi d’abri… Au sol, rien de visible, si ce n’est une coquille de moule. Qui est venu en ce lieu retiré ? Quand ? Et pourquoi ? Serait-ce les Kawesqar, dont nous avons déjà trouvé les traces sur Madre de Dios ? Encore un mystère de plus.


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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 26

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 27

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 36

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 26

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 27

Warning: strftime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /var/www/html/ultima2010/journal.php on line 36
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